Milan Fashion Week: Saint Prada

Whatever Miuccia Prada wants, well, fashionistas want too. It’s pretty simple, really: The high priestess of fashion has dropped the typical philosophical explanations of her collections for, uh, a more “commercial” approach. (Just don’t say that too loud!) The fall 2013 collection reflects Miuccia’s personal style: bourgeois, retro, with a smidgen of sexiness and a light dusting of the subversive. The bourgeois aspect comes through loud and clear in the ladylike suits’ flared skirts; the fur on the short jackets and on the turned-back sleeve cuffs; the ultra-luxe croc-stamped leather; and the sequined embroidery. The retro? Below-the-knee hemlines; 1950s-style cinched-waist silhouettes; and mini-floral prints in old-fashioned colours. The sexy bit is all about unbuttoned cardis slipping off the shoulders. And as for the subversive touches, think wet, dishevelled hair; colour-blocked sandals with big, notched soles; and punky booties. Special mention goes out to the almost dreamy artistic direction: The models walked slowly out from a backdrop of similarly languidly moving images.

Colours: Black, grey, peacock blue, teal, sky blue, maraschino red, ochre, sugary pink, chocolate brown

Accessories: bowling bags, colour-blocked sandals, booties with notched soles

Imaxtree / Prada

The Prada detail that changes everything: sleeves with huge fur-lined turned-back cuffs.

Imaxtree / Prada

New: rugby stripes on the vertical, worked on tweed.

Imaxtree / Prada

Imaxtree / Prada

Gingham bowling bag and shoes with notched soles? Suggested by Prada, adopted by all.